Oil Lift™ is made from Organic Hydrocarbons (plants) as oppose to Petroleum Hydrocarbons (Oil). Currently the bulk of the cleaning products and solvent market products are made from oil. It is well documented that most oil based cleaners and solvents have significant health and environmental problem associated with them. These initial toxicity, carcinogenic and ability to pervade in the environment is well documented and are coming under restrictions on a global scale.
Typically, non-toxic products have not performed very well and have had limited application and poor acceptance. Oil Lift™ has been developed a group of replacements based on plant or organic surfactants (cleaners) and solvents which out perform most petroleum based products without the side effects. This innovation in chemistry allows us to create industrial strength replacements for the bulk of the toxic products in industry as well as household.
No, not at all.
No,Oil Lift products are industrial – strenth concentrates.They can be dilluted up to 10 – 20 parts water for cleaning applications.For cleaning windows and outside of vehicles,for example,we recommend using at least 20 parts water,therefore,in the long run ,consumers actually save money.While at the same,they can vary the concentration with less water added for really ugly stains.Oil Lift™ is concentrates, you dillute it before you use it, so we provide double chamber dillution bottle.
Yes you can use it on clothes as long as you follow the laundering instructions on the clothes (label). Make sure you spot test prior to use (color fast) and that the cloths are already shrunk. When we do our laundry we have a spray bottle at 8 parts water to 1 part oil lift for spot removal and then we use half a cup of Oil Lift™ diluted at ten parts water. Depending on whether you have hard water or soft water will determine the dilution. Basically you have to play with it. Also, note you don’t need laundry detergent or bleach. The Oil lift™ will break down the laundry detergent and it even cleans out your washing machine of the moldy laundry detergent inside the machine. To determine if your machine has moldy laundry detergent inside, smell your towels after a couple of days of use. If they smell moldy your machine has a mold problem. Simply wash some big towels in hot water and stop the machine when it is filled with water for half an hour. This will give Oil Lift™ time to work and break up the mold and detergent. Repeat if necessary.
100 to 400 square feet per gallon depending on amount of oil and how porous surface is.
Never use any acid including vinegar on marble. Only alkaline cleaners .Acids eat marble
This is going to sound kind of weird. I don’t really know what’s happening with the new Auto Wash and Shine. The trucks and cars we have tested just stay clean longer. The theory so far is the anti-static charge that repels the dirt.
One fellow drives to Calgary and gets covered in bugs with his mini Van. After the treatment the bugs would wipe off by hand. Basically, the polymer stops them from sticking. On the strength side the Rim, Tire, Tar and Bug blaster is scary strong.
always be careful when dealing with roofs and roofing materials. I generally recommend you stay away from this part of the cleaning business as so many things can go wrong.
The answer to your question is yes and no. here’s why you don’t know what the roofing material is made of. lots of variations in the shingle formulations so you must treat each one as a separate case. so test, test, test. Even cedar shakes have huge variation. 50 year old shakes from old growth trees can be more solid then ten year old new growth shakes. The new shakes have lower density and can fall apart when cleaning.
when you put oillift on mold mildew, it changes the PH so the stuff dies. yet in some cases it has grown into the surface. I’ve seen this in bathroom silicone. we can clean the outside, yet you can cut it open and the mold is in the material. very weird.
any test test test. yet I still recommend staying away from roofs. Roof coatings is how I entered the chemical industry and I did well, yet the headaches showed me that there was an easier way of making a living.
The warmer the better. is speeds up the reaction. you can pour boiling water on the surface.
Dilute the Oillift half and half with water. Keep soaking the surface for about an hour. You will be able to see when the Oillift has penetrated by pooring a little on the surface and watching the reaction. The surface will look clear for lack of a better word.
Then you put the flubber dust on and let it soak up the material. When it’s all dry simply sweep it up and leave it in the sun. It will dry and you can use it over again.
The surface may seem blacker at first or sometimes it gets grey. The sun will bleach out the colour over a couple of weeks.
Thanks for asking about my “green cleaners” and how green they are?
I can guarantee that if you drink my cleaners you will vomit your guts out. Really I’m not kidding. Somebody actually did and won $100 buck on a bet. He drank a whole bottle and the Doctor called me and asked what to do. Naturally they were very drunk. She gave him a can of coke (phosphoric acid) which neutralized the product and he spent some time in the bathroom. I should have patented this.
Never let anything go down the drain. In Canada you can’t even put fresh water into salt water; the joke is every time it rains God’s breaking the law.
The best time for this is a dry day.
When a surface or area is dry you spray Oillift scrub and keep wet for about an hour, then you put down flubber dust and move it around until is sucks all the Oillift and oil out of the surface. You then put the flubber Dust in buckets in the shop by the window. As it heats from the sun it splits the oil molecule and then you use it again and again. I have my new flubber cooker that we can filed test.
In wet weather or large clean up with pressure washers we filter the water with the Oillift super absorbent booms. Never let anything go down the drain. In Canada you can’t even put fresh water into salt water, the joke is every time it rains God’s breaking the law.
The best time for this is a dry day.
When a surface or area is dry you spray Oillift scrub and keep wet for about an hour, then you put down flubber dust and move it around until is sucks all the Oillift and oil out of the surface. You then put the flubber in buckets in the shop by the window. As it heats from the sun it splits the oil molecule and then you use it again and again. I have my new flubber cooker that we can filed test.
In wet weather or large clean up with pressure washers we filter the water with the Oillift super absorbent booms